Near CSUSB, tender carne asada, a portable “taquito sundae” and a friendly welcome give students a reason to stop in.
Three taquitos sticking out of a cup filled with toppings might not be what you picture when you’re ordering food. At Paco’s Tacos, the presentation looks something like a taquito sundae, with crumbled cheese instead of sprinkles.
Tucked in the corner of the strip mall behind El Pollo Loco at the intersection of Kendall and University, Paco’s Tacos offers a convenient stop for CSUSB students looking for a meal off-campus. When I stopped in for a Taco Tuesday lunch, tender carne asada, taquitos that held on to their crunch and a friendly welcome gave the small taco shop an appeal that went beyond its unusual serving containers.
The taquito cup, priced at $8.99, was honestly a great idea and an entertaining way to get some taquitos, which are a staple of every Mexican food order for me. Three rolled tacos like meat straws coming out of layers of toppings, including sour cream, chopped tomatoes, lettuce, salsa verde, and crumbled white cheese crowning the top. It was a playful presentation and the taquitos held on to their crunch, and were obviously freshly made.
Stephen Day
The cup also seemed like a practical “on-the-go” option for students who might be walking back to campus. A plate requires you to settle in somewhere to enjoy them, but the cup was something you could carry off with you. For students fitting lunch into a tight schedule of classes, the portability has appeal.
The carne asada tacos, coming in at $3.49 each, offered a more familiar presentation, served on a doubled corn tortilla with chopped onion, cilantro, and lime wedges alongside. The meat was well-seasoned and tender, without the gristle that can turn a bite of carne asada into an afternoon of chewing.
Of the two salsas served, I preferred the green. It was spicy without being overbearing, and brought a wallop of flavor that enhanced the taco. The red sauce wasn’t bad, but it was mild, and was giving spicy ketchup, making it less enjoyable with the seasoned meat.
Stephen Day
There is also a reason to sit down and stay awhile. Outside, umbrellas shade the courtyard tables surrounded by plants, colorful decorations, and some interesting people watching. Inside there are a couple of booths and a table with pull out chairs for ADA access.
The welcome is as enjoyable as the food. Jesús Reyes was friendly and easy to talk to, giving the visit a personal touch that fits how he describes his work.
“I love being able to meet people, and talk to people,” Reyes said.
Stephen Day
Reyes and his wife, Araceli Hernández Reyes, own the restaurant, which has occupied its courtyard location for about 30 years. For Reyes, running Paco’s followed a change in careers. He previously worked in construction, but a workplace injury led him down a different path.
He still enjoys working with his hands and has a particular interest in welding. At the restaurant, though, one of the things he values the most is working alongside his family and spending that time together.
His own menu recommendations include the garbage burrito and chile rellenos.
“Those are very good,” he says.
Those dishes will have to wait for my next visit. This time, the tender carne asada and the crunch of the taquitos provided enough of a reason to return soon. The taquito sundae may draw your attention first, but it earns that attention by holding up through lunch.
Next time you’re out on the hunt for a bite to eat, skip the big chain drive-throughs and support the local mom-and-pop taco shop down the street from campus.
